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WATER CULTURE
by
Rod Venger
Venger's Orchids
1220 Pando Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO. 80906
(719) 576-7686
http://vengers.com/culture/water.htm
"Water culture is something we've been
experimenting with since Nov. '95. The idea is
simple. Culturing orchids in no media except for
water. The water is present all the time. For those
wanting to experiment with this method of orchid
culture, we're presenting a few guidelines to help
you.
Container
The container we prefer most is glass though
we've even used Rubbermaid containers with as good
a success as with glass. The container needs to be
deep enough to accommodate a large root system and
the rim of the container should support the bottom
leaves of the plant if possible. For pseudobulbous
plants, a stake can be tied to the plant which will
support it in the container.
Starting Out
Once you've selected which plants you want to
grow and the containers you want to grow them in,
consider these basics:
(1) Always use tepid water when initially
filling or replacing the water in your containers.
'Tepid' has no discernable temperature. It will
feel neither warm nor cold.
(2) Fertilizer strength and type should be the
same as for potted plants. We keep fertilizer in
the water at all times.
(3) Water changes should be done weekly with
daily additions if needed. Do not allow the water
level to drop below the top of the roots for any
length of time. So long as the water level is
correct, there is virtually no risk of bacterial or
fungal infections. Do not remove the algae growth
from either the roots or the inside of the
container. It's our feeling that it assists with
gas exchange within what is basically a stagnant
body of water. At the end of each week just dump
the water and replace.
(4) Temperature and light is exactly the same
for water cultured plants as it would be if the
plants were potted. In other words, follow the same
cultural guidelines for the hybrid or species
you're growing. Bear in mind that the water will
quickly reach room temperature. A cold room will
stunt the growth of the plant. A hot room will also
stunt the growth of the plant. 65-85 degrees should
be the outside ranges of the room with the max in
the 80-85 degree range for intermediate growing
orchids.
(5) 'Repotting' is basically not needed until
the root system has so overwhelmed the container
that getting the plant out of the container would
cause damage doing so. The roots in these
containers will not rot and only rarely die so
expect to see more roots than you're used to
seeing.
(6) Miscellaneous thoughts: We have yet to have
a plant die in our experiments. Some plants do seem
easier than others though. Phrags especially seem
fond of the method, while phals, though growing
nicely, seem somewhat slower than pot culture.
Cattleyas, catasetums, dendrobiums, mormodes,
oncidiums, paphs, zygos ALL do well. Bear in mind
that plants just won't be suitable for this method
if they need a rest period. Give it a try, have
fun, and be sure and let us know how things work
out! If you have any specific questions, feel free
to e-mail me." <venger@vengers.com>
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